Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Road to Phuket Town

I am on sensory overload from our trip to Phuket. A month on the island of doing nothing but diving, teaching, playing backgammon and eating large quantities of curry whilst playing with cute kittens has had the result of making me ultra-sensitive to the chaos of a larger town filled with cars and shopping malls and the screams of “taxi” or “tuk tuk” or “where you going.”

The ferry from Phi Phi to Phuket was a fun-filled rollercoaster ride. It was choppy, the boat was creaking, and I was happy I’d popped my little puker’s little helper. I put my headphones on and listened to Billy Joel the whole way and thought about New York. That sufficiently distracted me for the hour and a half or so it took to get across.

A few dive pros from the island were on the ferry as well. One of them, on his way home to the UK, was scared to death and his girlfriend looked rather green as well. Another commented on how much it was going to suck then she slept the whole way and woke up to comment on how much it had sucked. Ryan dozed most the way and Gee listened to his iPod.

From Reseda Pier we took a taxi to Big C. It was a bit strange being in a car again, surrounded by cars. It struck me as very noisy and everything very very very fast paced.

Big C is just about the Thai equivalent of Target! And it’s inside a mini mall where we hunted around the electronics stores for odds and ends that we needed such as a power adapter for my ear dryer, USB extension cable for Ryan so he can possible scam wifi from the same source from which I seem better able to scam wifi.
Gee was making the trip to Phuket to buy a TV and a DVD player. He noted the prices at Big C and then we went to KFC for lunch. I don’t eat KFC in the US and am not about to start in Thailand, so I opted for some French fries which I have to say were heavenly.

Gee’s TV shopping excursion then took us to Tesco, an even bigger version of Target. There I launched into a bit of shopping myself, even finding A&W root beer. Tesco had a Dairy Queen and we indulged in some post-shopping Blizzards.

Gee having accomplished his mission, shared a cab with us and dropped us in Phuket Town while he continued onward to Reseda Pier to return to Phi Phi. Ryan and I began our hunt for a hotel. We’d been given two names, both of which we easily found and both of which we found a bit pricey. With the time ticking and the Harry Potter hour approaching (remember, that was my main reason for going to the mainland), we decided to lug our bags into the theatre and deal with finding a hotel afterwards.

There are two malls in Phuket – the one next to Big C and the one next to our hotel in Phuket Town. The internet had told me that both were playing Harry Potter in English. The internet lied! Somewhat frustrated that we had to now take another taxi to return to the place we’d just left, we checked into one of the two pricey hotels and decided to return to the Big C mall where Ryan wanted to spend a bit more time evaluating the choices of external DVD players. Then we’d catch the evening showing of HP and then some dinner.

Finally it was time for Harry Potter! With armfuls of popcorn and candy and soda, we entered the theatre and settled in to enjoy two and a half hours of completely satisfying entertainment! We both thoroughly enjoyed the movie. It was a perfect getaway.

We passed on Sizzler for dinner and opted instead for a nice Japanese restaurant. I wasn’t overly hungry after all the popcorn, so opted against sushi, and instead enjoyed some Agedashi Tofu, which is still one of my favorite things on any menu, and some dumplings. Ryan had an Unagi roll and some beef teriyaki.
After pounding through malls all day we were both ready for the quiet of our aircon room.

Monday morning we planned out our day best we could – I wanted to get back to the mall to pick up a few more things, we needed to get a duplicate key of our room made, we needed to go to immigration and Ryan needed a post office. We decided that I would go to the mall while he went to the post and then we would go together to immigration. A tuk tuk driver intercepted us and told us that the mall was closed until 10:30 or 11.

So we changed our plans around. Same tuk tuk driver also told us that for 100 baht he would take us from our hotel to immigration, then to the post office, then back to the mall, then back to our hotel then to Reseda Pier. We got in and off we went to immigration. Ryan went in to scope out whether or not they would give us our stamp while I waited with the tuk tuk. About the time I decided to go see what was happening with Ryan, he was coming back out to tell me that they would extend our visas no problem, we just needed some photocopies that could be obtained, conveniently enough, behind the immigration building.

The guards at the entrance of immigration are all Anglo of some flavor - I’d venture to say from Oz. They helped us fill out the necessary forms and ushered us to the appropriate Thai officer. One stamped our paperwork and passport. The next one collected our money (1900 baht each) and ushered our passports to another officer at a computer. And a forth one signed our extension stamps. I was absolutely thrilled that we were able to do this so that we don’t have to return to Phuket at the end of August, unless of course, we have other reasons to do so.

We left the immigration building and went in search of our tuk tuk. Our tuk tuk was gone. He abandoned us at immigration (and hadn’t gotten paid, so we got a free ride to immigration). Three moped taxis across the road offered us a ride. In this scenario, I’m pretty sure Ryan and I were both getting on the same moped with another grown adult AND not wearing helmets. I said no f’ing way! And we decided to walk back. It wasn’t far – took us all of 10 minutes and on the way we found a place to get our key made.

Our plan, now sans tuk tuk, proceeded and Ryan and I split so he could go to the post office while I went shopping in search of a jean skirt and a pillow and the grocery store. I found my mini skirt. Then I found a great cup of coffee and then Ryan called to tell me he was on his way back from the post office. We joined up and went to the grocery store together where we spent about $40 on cereal (in lieu of the big box of rice krispies I was hoping to find, I got five little boxes at 40 baht each – same size box is 100+ baht on the island), Ryan got some chocolate, we found some apples and decided to splurge big time and each get a coffee almond crunch hagen dazs bar. And Ryan got some Hee Haws. That boy is a candy freak!

We had just a few minutes left to hit Robinson’s (a hoity toity Macy’s type store) to find me a cheap pillow and pillowcase and get back to the hotel to check out by noon. (The reason I “needed” a pillow is that at our bungalow, our pillow allotment is two – that’s one each. I’ve been able to change a lot of my behaviour since our arrival, but I still have trouble falling asleep with only one pillow – 12 bucks later and I have a good night’s sleep!)

I’d already negotiated us a 100 baht ride to the Pier and loaded up with all the goodies we’d bought, we found Tony, the taxi driver and were on route to the Pier.
We were told that there was only one ferry going to Phi Phi and I prayed and hoped that it wasn’t Chao Koh which is a small skinny ferry that in the conditions we’d faced coming into Phuket would have been an unbearable ride.

We were escorted to the ticket booth where the nice lady selling tickets said “600 baht each.” My reaction must have told her not to mess with me. That’s double what we paid both times we’ve been on or off the island. I was so shocked that I didn’t even leave her room for bargaining. I flatly said “No, it’s 300 baht each” and gave her 600 baht. To this she responded, “Oh, you live on Phi Phi.” Nice save lady!

Ryan and I were discussing this afterwards. If I didn’t know better, I’d have forked over 1200 for a 600 baht ride. Which led us to wonder where the extra money goes. Does it get pocketed by whoever sells the ticket? Does it go to the ferry company and the employee gets a big bonus for extorting loads of extra money off of unsuspecting farang? The ferry was full and I can’t help but wonder how many people paid 600 baht. I love this country! Nothing has a set price, you can bargain your way out of pretty much anything.

Gee told us a story of a guy he knew who’d spent 8 years straight in Thailand without leaving. He finally returned to the UK and the customs agent at Heathrow took his passport and said there was a problem (Gee didn’t go into what the problem was). The guy was so indoctrinated that his gut response (and the one he gave the British customs agent) was “How much is it going to cost?” They had what must have seemed to the agent, the most insane of exchanges, as the agent was baffled at this Brit who kept insisting that he could pay his way out of it. But in Thailand, that’s how it would work. Not sure what happened to the poor Brit – there is the distinct possibility that he’s rotting away in some jail for attempted bribe of a British customs agent.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Our Daily Life

I don’t remember the last time we had a day off together – I don’t even remember last time I had a day off. So what are we doing with it? Ryan’s at one end of the balcony on his laptop and I’m at the other end on my laptop. I have no issues with the fact that we are just wasting away the day. I said I was gonna. Better to be honest with yourself from the get-go – makes for less disappointment later. There was no need to make big plans for all the things that I was going to do today. I pretty much knew that I was going to idle the day away.

Now it is Saturday and I must say that a better way to start the day would have been with Saturday morning cartoons. Ryan started out the day mind-numbingly watching numerous episodes of Bones and I caught up on writing overdue emails.

The biggest news perhaps is the missed phone call that I received yesterday followed by a text message from Ryan to announce that the missed call I’d gotten from Chris was to let me know that he’d decided to drink the same Kool-Aid as Ryan and I.

Chris works for BAE (British Aeronautics). He builds tanks. Obama has cut his program and others affecting BAE and BAE Santa Clara is reducing its workforce drastically. Those of you who know Chris will understand how easy it was for him to transfer to another position within BAE, which he did, not without growing pains. BAE had announced impending layoffs and employees had been given an opportunity to volunteer for layoffs. After much thought and a few conversations with us, Chris finally made the decision to join us here in Thailand. All the cool kids are doing it, why aren’t you? We are expecting his arrival mid-September.

I’ve been asked to tell you all a little bit about our daily lives. And here I thought the detailed scuba course renditions were so descriptive of what we were doing. But I will run you through a typical day or two. And I’ll include pictures.
Alarm clock rings at 6:30 and I push snooze. It rings again at 6:40 and I push snooze again. It rings again at 6:50 and I begrudgingly get out of bed with a few grumbles. I throw on a bathing suit, a pair of shorts and a tank top and wash my face and brush my teeth and run out the door to be at the shop by 7:15ish. It’s a 5 minute walk to the shop, give or take a minute or two depending on exactly how sluggish I’m feeling.


Leaving the bungalows


Walking past the wastewater collection


Walking down the road...


The Shop

Our divers meet us by 7:30 and we walk to the pier to catch the boat.


The Boat at the Pier



Setting up the Gear


Ryan briefing students

We get everyone on the boat and give them a boat briefing which includes where the coffee and water are, the bathroom rules and procedures and no dripping in the dry cabin. Depending on the course we’re running we’ll set up the gear as appropriate and head down to the dive sites and do the appropriate dive briefing for the site and course that we are doing.


Phi Phi Dive Sites

Generally, we’ll do the first dive on either Bida Nok or Bida Nai. We’re in the water before 9:00 and back on the boat by 10:00.


On Bida Nai and Bida Nok we see Mr. Shark


The boat will then go back up to Phi Phi Leh for the surface interval. We’ll moor in one of the bays. That’s our “lunch” break. Since it’s no later than 10:30, it’s probably more apt to call it a late breakfast, even if we are eating Chicken Chili Basil. Our surface interval generally lasts about an hour and a half, during which time we’ll eat, jump off the top of the boat and lay about in the sun.


Alexia with Claire and Richard - the lovely English students who dove with us for almost a month and took many many PADI courses


Craziness


A Happy Man

Our second dive is off of Phi Phi Leh.


On Phi Phi Leh, we see Mr. Turtle

We’re back at the Pier around 1 to 1:30. We unload the boat and unload the divers and head back to the shop to debrief and sign logbooks.

If we’re not diving in the morning, then the alarm never rings and the early morning is spent lazily watching TV until the shop opens at 10:00. Lately I’ve discovered that I can “steal” wifi from the bungalows behind us. A friend of us lives in those bungalows and gave me the password (though as it turns out – cracking the passwords is really really easy). So I’ve been spending less time mindlessly watching TV and more time mindlessly surfing the net.

Our afternoons can be spent either teaching theory, teaching in confined water or working shop hours trying to book classes or fun dives. I’ve taken up playing backgammon again if Holly’s working the same shift. It’s a great way to pass the time. My mac also has backgammon, so I'm also playing the computer, but the computer is too easy to beat.

Evenings are spent eating, visiting with friends, watching TV and sleeping. We’re in our room surprisingly little except to sleep. While the afternoon shift ends at 6:00 p.m. we’re very rarely back home before 8:00, which leaves little idle time.

Lately, I’ve been wanting to eat at Papaya a lot because they have the kittens and I love playing with them. They’re about the cutest things ever and have great little playful personalities. Papaya also has the best curries to be had on this island. The owners are also delightful. The brother of the owner of Papaya is our boat captain. The whole family is so happy and genuinely nice.


The Cutest Thing EVER


More cuteness


Oh look, more cute...


And while all this cuteness is going on, mama naps in the fridge next to the Singha

The Thai people in general seem genuinely happy and nice. I try to smile a lot at people I cross on my way to work or wherever. It always surprises me that the Thais always smile back. Not always so with the farang. Farang is the Thai for “outsider” hence all whiteys are “farang.” It apparently is also the name of a delicious fruit we’ve just discovered that tastes somewhere between a pear and an apple and is best enjoyed when freezing cold.

I’ve already written about the food, but I’ll say a little more. I’m always surprised by the quality of the food. I’ve actually not had a bad meal since we’ve been here – there are things I’ve enjoyed more than others, but always the quality is impeccable. You know how you can go to a restaurant you’ve never tried in America and it can be dodgy. Not so here. So while I continue to refuse to eat cow, that’s now turning into principal, more than anything else.

I’m also categorically refusing to eat most fish because I’m adamantly against the fishing practices here. I’m also seeing way too much fish at market and wondering what they do with it if they don’t sell it. And I'm seeing way too much fish at market that I see alive in the ocean in the morning. It's not a whoa, poor fish thing, I'm not pushing it that far, but they're prettier when they're alive in the ocean. I’m hoping that somehow it ends up in the restaurants. Also, I’m fairly certain that if they quit taking the squid out of my ocean, I’d actually see one every once in a while.

The fishing rules here are dodgy. There’s a lot of fishing boats. They break the rules and are protected by laws that say that they’re allowed to catch whatever is enough to sustain their family. They fish on our reefs, which they’re not supposed to do. I don’t like it. The places we dive are part of a “marine park.” Note that it’s a park, not a reserve. What does that mean? Absolutely nothing. It just makes it sounds like it’s protected, but its protection is very limited and only really adhered to by the dive community who enforces a strict no touching, no harassing of the wildlife.

La Mamita has become another favorite. It’s Italian, as the name suggests. I had fettucini with cream sauce and salmon the other night. I can’t begin to describe how incredible it was. Of course, just like the cheese sauce gnocchi, it has a week’s worth of fat calories. I’m not bothered though. I’m losing weight. Not sure why or how, but not complaining. I’m up to 50% spicy on the chili level in my panang and have even been able to swallow 100% without choking. That might be the secret to weight loss – sweat off ten pounds every time you eat a meal.


And then there's Pad Thai lady (Song)...


With the walls all covered in notes of praise

But I digress. Though the paternal units who might be concerned that we’re not eating enough, may your fears be laid to rest!

Every once in a while we’ve been asked to work the night shift from 6:00 to 10:00. Generally Ryan works that – not sure how it’s worked out that way, but it has.

If we’re diving the next day, there’s a chance that we have to go pack gear at 9:15. That part really irks me, but I understand why the shop we were working for does it that way. At other shops, you pack your gear when you know what you’ve booked and what you’re taking out the next day. At the shop we’ve been working at, they pool the instructors and pull from that pool. So there’s a chance that at 6:30 you think you’re taking fun divers the next day, then at 9:00 two discover scuba diving sign up, which requires an instructor and suddenly you’re switched from taking fun divers to taking a class. I have no basis for comparison, but I do like the pool system, provided of course, that everyone pulls his or her weight. As I understand it, that is often not the case.

Lights out around 10:00. Ryan’s pretty good about being lights out and sleeping by 10:30. I’m a bit less routine than he is and tend to do lights out and sleep time whenever I’m tired. That’s why I tend to be a lot more grumpy in the morning. Now that we’ve gotten into a routine, Ryan’s also back on a similar schedule to home where he falls asleep earlier and wakes up stupid early without the alarm.

The thing about writing all this about our day to day is that our day to day is changing now. Our month at Princess is over and we’re no longer employed. The island at this very minute is rather slow. That of course, could change next week. It's the full moon again so everyone's off to Koh Phang Nga to party like it's 1999. The island is again quiet for a few days and we’re once again freelancers.

As I started saying this morning, today was lazy. Ryan did think that we should leave the room at one point, so we walked around the island, picked up our pay at Princess, went to water hill to pick up a pack of bottled water, then came back to the room. We haven’t said much to each other all afternoon – I’ve been buried in my little projects and I’m not sure what Ryan’s been up to. As with our last pay day, we’re going to go for a special dinner of halibut at a fancy pants restaurant.

Now we’ve decided that tomorrow we’re going to Phuket. I want to see Harry Potter and go shopping. Ryan wants to shop for electronics. And we’ll stay overnight and go to immigration on Monday morning to see if they’ll stamp our passports for another month. It might be too early for that, but it’s worth a try since we’ll be there anyway.