Bali, Baby (Tulamben)

March 4, 2011

We’ve arrived in Bali on what is the eve of their new year’s celebration. Much like Thailand’s Songkran, this is a festival of sending out the old and bringing in the new. However, unlike any new year celebration I’ve experienced thus far, it is one of true austerity. Tomorrow there is no existence. It is a time of reflection. There is no working, no driving, no flying, no being outside, no eating, no activities of any kind. So for us, no diving. Not great timing, but after the traveling, a day of rest might do us good.

Tonight we lucked into the festivities – a parade with a paper mache demon warder being paraded and animated by a group of Balinese men, led by a diminutive version being paraded and animated by a group of young Balinese boys. They marched their demon warders down the main (and only) street of Tulamben, displayed them on the side of the street, set off fireworks, then set the lot on fire. Ryan and Andy, thrilled to bits at the cheap, cheap noise-makers, set off a few of their own and I practiced my fireworks photography.

After a few days in Phuket, tying up loose ends, opening a bank account – if only I’d known a year ago how easy that was! – mailing some stuff home and – very important – enjoying some sushi, the alarm clocks sprung to life all too early this morning at stupid 3:55 (five minutes after Ryan’s phone had already gone “HAHA” upon receipt of a text message from our friend Andy who was making a last minute visa run and had decided to accompany us).

We topped off the evening with our first Balinese meal of Nasi Goreng, Sate and Lumpia.
It was one of those days when everything was on our side. After much stress over our luggage, we were easily checked in and no one said a thing about carrying on our dive bags, which we did easily (and since Air Asia is reputed so strict about baggage – no one on the plane had any carry ons, so it was easy to stow them as well). We arrived in Bali and my prescheduled pick-up was a no show, so we decided to head straight for Tulamben rather than spend the night in Sanur.

Finding a taxi was a bit of a challenge. We knew that the airport taxis were a rip-off and that you could get much cheaper taxis just outside. Surely enough, we were quoted $125 by the airport taxis and we eventually managed to get a ride for $45! It was a bumpy, windy, uncomfortable ride in Wayan’s minibus. And Wayan was determined to turn a 3-hour trip into a 2-hour trip so that he might get back to southern Bali in time for his parade. I must be getting used to the drivers of this part of the world or I’ve completely surrendered my mortality because the insanity doesn’t even phase me – the way they pass little mopeds and zip in and out of lanes with no regard for what’s coming from where – we even went flying past the Polisi truck without a raised eyebrow from them.

Despite its death-defying nature, the drive was stunning. I think it looks a lot like the Big Island of Hawaii – lush and verdant, craggy cliff-y shoreline, rocky black sand beaches. Lots and lots of rice fields, some hanging on for dear life to the side of a volcano remind us that we are indeed not in Hawaii.

A squooch over two hours and we pulled in to the bungalows at Tulamben that had been recommended to us. I hope that soon I will be able to post pictures. It is gorgeous. We have a massive room that is a freestanding bungalow. Unfortunately, there is air-con which Ryan feels compelled to use even though the temperature is quite pleasant (he’ll tell you he’s got it set perfect so it just cuts the humidity and I’ll tell you that bloody thing still blows on my head all night). It has hot water. Compared to what we’re used to, it’s luxury. And the price is very reasonable. And it’s a dive resort to boot!

March 7, 2011

It’s the mid-afternoon surface interval. We’ve just had lunch. Indo food is painfully bland compared to Thai food (though we have found one restaurant that satisfies us quite nicely with diver-sized dinners). Our pallets are so used to the intricacies of Thai spices and how nam plaa accentuates flavor. I am adding chili sauce and Magi to try to kick it up a notch. Andy offered a taste of his curry and after his description, “it tastes like Bisto,” I was inclined to decline. The banana pancakes are quite nice and the banana fritters are very nice and the lumpia are fantastic, but we cannot live on fried food alone.

The diving is superb. Tulamben found a spot on the world dive map because of the USS Liberty shipwreck. The USS Liberty was a cargo ship built in the teens and Japanese torpedoed during WWII in 1942 while crossing Lombok Strait. It beached. Then in 1963, volcanic activity caused it to slip back into the ocean and lazily settle onto its starboard side. Our bungalow is about 25 meters from the beach and the wreck is about another 30 meters out. This little resort where we are staying is as conveniently located to the wreck as you can be. Entries and exits are painful to say the least, as the beach is not sand, but large stones – not ideal for bare feet!
We are making loads of new fish friends! New types of angelfish and nudis and pipefish – leaf scorpionfish– extraordinary corals – this morning a white tip reef shark and some bumphead parrotfish came to say hello – perhaps the best dive we’ve had thus far. Unfortunately, the internet sucks donkey here so you’ll have to be patient when it comes to pictures.

Now, diving in Bali is a bit Cowboy style. No one’s asked us for proof of certification and we’ve not signed a single liability release. I love it! I mean seriously, if I die, what’s Ryan gonna do? Sue for some dude’s tiny little rice terrace? There are no instructors; DSDs are done by tattooed dive guides who’ve no idea what PADI stands for. I’m curious if DSDs even have to sign any kind of liability release. It makes me smile!

Tomorrow we head down to Sanur for a night or two before taking the ferry to Lembongan where we hope to go dive with those elusive manta rays.

Peace xoxox